Pack Light

I have written several posts on luggage as it is an important part of my semi-nomadic life. Not only I love travelling and I am planning more frequent trips to the east. I also need to go back *home* a few times a year to remind myself what sun, good food and family affections are like. I had the perfect cabin trolley, until it broke a month ago in Sicily. It was smart, robust and very manageable - just too old. It endured nine years of commuting and travels. I got a bit upset because it was my friends' graduation present, but I have decided not to mourn any longer material things, even if they have a sentimental value. If it broke after so many years, it meant that I needed to make space for something new. After all, it was too smart for the adventurous trip I have got in mind for the future and a tiny bit too heavy. With all the increasingly stricter luggage restrictions imposed by airlines, even one kilo makes a huge difference. So, I have been looking for a replacement: something cheaper, sturdy, light and practical without sacrificing (of course) style. Eastpack Transfer Luggage seems to tick all the boxes. It is a good comprimise between a smart trolley and rucksack and it is discounted to £59.99 here.

Have a look at these packing tips my brother-in-law passed me on: Ten Days in a Carry-on

Taste of Sicily

Roman Visit

Last week I spent a few days in Rome for my cousin's graduation ceremony. She completed a degree course in communication studies in less than three years. 

Admirable.  

We celebrated with a fat dinner, a six course affair, and she received top class presents, including a stylish trolley, a trip to Amsterdam, a posh pen by Campo di Marzio, a Calvin Klein handbag and, last but not least, an engraved Tiffany bracelet by myself {and my mum}. And she is still not happy about her life.

But this is another story.

I spent a whole day with my mum downtown Rome, and we were determined to do serious shopping. But we could find absolutely nothing. Luckily we have a second close chance as she is flying to London in five days time.

The same night {Friday} I met up with my lovely girlfriends: Ari {maid of honour}, Fede {a devoted asthanga yogini who was doing a workshop with yoga celebrity Lino Miele} and Cri {who divides her time between Rome and her Agriturismo in Sabina}. We ate fish in a taverna of San Lorenzo and played catch-up but time flew by and it was definitely not enough.

Saturday was a restful day. My cousin's house is so huge that I could sleep in undisturbed.  My other cousin left in the early morning to go skiing to the Alps with my uncle, but I didn't hear a thing. At lunch time I said goodbye to my mum who was going home that day {she lives on the opposite coast} and we {my cousin, her boyfriend and I} went for lunch in a far-west inspired restaurant where I ate an excellent fillet steak. We then browsed the shops of a brand new shopping centre - who was supposed to be an emulation  of American malls - before I boarded my plane back home. 

The next day I arrived at my yoga training late and wet. I missed the alarm clock and it was pouring down when I left home. I got straight into meditation which helped restore my nerves. The day progressed with a intense class on anatomy and physiology. I felt I learnt a great deal but still need to get my head around the mechanisms of thoracic and cellular breathing... 

Gift Ideas :: Under £200

In The Ryanair era travelling light has become obligatory. But it also bears its own advantages: it's swifter, stress-free and more efficient for the traveller as well as the airline.

The Bridge Zipped Top Shoulder Bag, £175

The Bridge shoulder bag is just the perfect size to fit a blackberry, keys, travel card, Moleskine, a Mont Blanc and a wallet; in other words the essential belongings for city survival. 

Piquadro Trolley ~ Odyssey, 150 Euro

Piquadro is another top Italian brand manufacturing stylish bags for city, business and travel. My cousin received one of their lightweight trolleys for her graduation, and I haven't stopped lusting over it since. The cabin luggage version is as light as a feather so it can be filled to the limit, comes in metallic colours {either silver or sky}, and it is easy to pull or push thanks to its four wheels.

NEMA :: Responsible Tourism Award, Best for Poverty Reduction 2009

My favourite charity {NEMA} has been awarded another prize! Well done Amy, Neil, Eva, Emma and the whole team at Guludo!

AMY

ME

Globetrotting in Style

These luxury handmade suitcases by Globetrotter Ltd are a dandy alternative to Louis Vuitton's signature travel set.

The Hello Kitty version is nifty and ironic. Her face, covered in ribbons, shouts *it's me, it's me not*. A bit like Magritte and his pipe: Ceci n'est pas une pipe.

STOCKHOLM :: Mini Style Guide for Conscientious Citytrotters

"Stockholmers have an incredible quality of never taking things too far. Whether it's in design, architecture, fashion or catering, Swedes just seem to achieve the ideal balance. They've even got the perfect word for it, lagom, which means 'just right'. "

WALLPAPER

This description wraps the captivating duality of Stockholm: a cosmopolitan capital taking the foreign influences to heart while retaining self-awareness and Nordic coolness.

First of all, make sure you have a Wallpaper City Guide at hand. It is pocket-size, easy to flick through and at £4.95 inexpensive. I like how the blurb reads: "discreet so that you don’t feel like a tourist" -- the worse nightmare of many citytrotters, my husband included: he is always reluctant to show himself in public consulting a Lonely Planet Guide or a city map.

Although highly criticised, one of the merits of frill-free airlines is to have reunited Europe. It has never been easier and cheaper travelling around our continent.

Where to stay 

If you feel nautical and wish a sea view, J Sealodge Gashaga is the place for you.

If you look for the same ambience at a more affordable price, the ship hostel is a quirky and economic choice. Its superb location  (it is set on central  island) and ecological breakfasts are a plus.

Alternatively, Birger Jar Hotel offers contemporary bedrooms, each designed by a different local designer. I particularly like the bold prints of suite 621 designed by interior design company Svenskt Tenn.

What to pack

It's a cold country and rather freezing for more than half of the year. So, it is paramount that you keep warm as cold feet may affect the quality of your stay. Even though winter days are so short that you feel obliged to make the most of them, I personally find Nordic cities in the cold months authentically charming. So, assuming you will be visiting in the coming months, the question is: how to be warm while retaining that chic city look?

You could take inspiration from street style blogs, or play safe and pack a technical gear that works also outside the ski runs.

If it is not a minus degree temperature, this practical, vaguely nautical look, will do.

Pop Culture

Before visiting a place, I like to immerse myself into its popular culture through films, art, design and food. It is a way of getting into the *globetrotting mode* to fully suck in the zest of it.

 

Aside one of the most acclaimed Swedish directors Ingmar Bergman, I appreciate the work of Lasse Hallström on Chocolat, What's Eating Gilbert Grape and, above all, Life as a Dog (photo above).

Together by Lukas Moodysson is a chaotic film exploring the messy dynamics of a modern commune. It is a film of *feelings*, funny and sweet.

Scandinavian design is renowned world-wide. One of the reasons behind its popularity must have to do with the fact that cold climates make you productive and creative. I recently stumbled across this lush Swedish design magazine: Skona hem, first seen on Jubella. 

If you want to take a peek at original Swedish houses, take a house tour around lovely Benita Larsson's house. I also recommend a couple of eye-candy design blogs,  rigorously made in Sweden: Emma Designblogg and Om Hoom Sthlm. 

Viaggi e Sapori is a food blog created by an Italian lady living in Stockholm and conveniently written in Italian and English. She mainly cooks Italian cuisine, but every now and then she throws in delicious Swedish recepies, such as Yellow Pea Soup, Swedish Potatoes Gratin and Pyttipanna.

Dining

Allmanna Galleriet 925 exudes a certain degree of shabby chic ambience. It is a restaurant, bar and club, all in once.  

Sightseeing

I would happily get lost in the cobbled streets of Gamla Stan (the Old Town) and spend a substantial chunk of my time in the galleries and design shops of Skeppholmen, the Museum Island.

The visit would not be complete without a stroll in the up-and-coming district of Kungsholmen (photo by Peter Leonard) and amongst the cutting-edge boutiques and boho cafes of Södermalm.

Photo here

If I need to pick one of Stockholm's many islands, I would choose Djurgården. It is a royal parkland, with open-air museums and galleries dotted about. A relaxing place, as my Swedish friend defined it.

Shopping

Sofo is the coolest shopping enclave in Södermalm, showcasing emerging Scandinavian labels.

When I was in Helsinki two years ago I came across this label which looks quintessentially Swedish and with the coolest name: 5th Avenue Shoe Repair. The collection is rigorously  monochromatic with focus on the intricate sartorial cut. It looks extravagant and yet so portable.

I have just bumped into this photo collection of craft and design shops in Stockholm. They are certainly worth a look. Your mouth will start watering and you will be start longing for a trip to Stockholm!

I cannot finish this excursus of all Swedish-related things without mention of the home of all homes: IKEA. No need, of course, to pay a visit to this sanctuary of affordable and creative home décor, but I cherry picked some of classic must-haves for your convenience:

Clockwise from top: The ubiquitous DOCKSTA table, TIRUP swivel chair, IKEA Swedish meatballs and New Printed Fabrics.

Swedish Massage

I would spend the last morning of my trip in a SPA and indulge in a Swedish massage. Sturebadet is an historical SPA which hosted stars of the calibre of Greta Garbo.

Photo seen on Muttaburrasaurus

If you prefer a more minimal environment, then Yasuragi is where you can spend Zen moments and receive a soothing massage before your flight home.


Creative Stockholm
Check out the Fun Theory, successfully experimented at Odenplace station. Very funny!

"Unconcerned but not Indifferent", Man Ray

I am not sure why I haven't blogged about my September weekend in Paris yet. It was my sixth time in the capital and blogged about it before, but I had not been back for ages, and all my visits, including this, have always been flash breaks. So, this time I wanted to strike a good balance between the more traditional landmarks (i.e. sparkling Eiffel Tower by night, Mont Maintre and cemeteries) and less touristy spots (i.e. Les Marais and Montparnasse Tower). 

The weather was glorious if not a touch too hot.

We spent most of the Saturday browsing the independent boutiques of Les Marais and watching the flawless crowd go by, while sipping coffee in the many cafes of this fashionable neighbourhood. Shopping was an excellent way of interacting with locals. As my husband and I noticed, all the shop assistants were stunning: pretty, kind and well-spoken. I was too busy (window) shopping and chatting to take photos of the delights I saw, but managed to take note of all the labels that stole my heart.

Photos (c) Jean Marie Racon

Ella Luna had lovely party dresses, Ekjo Paris stocked cosy cashmere jumper dresses, Custo Barcelona had the most eccentric printed kimono-dress made of different fabrics, with mossy green being the predominant colour. In a uber-funky shop -- a huge bazaar-style maze mixing new and second-hand stuff, I finally got a pair of eco VEJA trainers which have become my second skin since. I was slightly disappointed by Paul & Joe Sister. Online you can find more of the previous collections than in store. This could be said for any make, but the Parisian branch was disappointingly badly stocked. I was so upset when I turned up at Repetto shop to find it shut (Paris shops don't do Sunday). Ah well, it will be for next time. For more information, you can virtually browse this quarter on Haut Marais, an informative shopping compass.

The best part was styling Mr Lofty. My job was completed when he decided to buy this whole outfit (but the scarf) from LOFT design by.

And please pose your eyes on the male model for a few seconds (click on the pic to enlarge)... Oh, those eyes!

This girl looked very in vogue with those bunny ears (I know they are Minnie's ears, but the general trend has been labelled *Bunny Ear Look*). Only later I realised that she was one of the veterans from Eurodisney, hence the hair ornament.

The Montparnasse tower's rooftop on the 54th floor is open-air providing an unfiltered vista of the city and is not as touristy as other high spots I have visited during my citytrotting experiences, so the climb was quick and sweet.

The Seine has got a calming effect on me as it allows my eye to  see beyond and enjoy a wide panorama, no matter where you stand or from which perspective you look at it. This is a liberating feeling I only experience in low-rise cities like Berlin.

Mon Maintre is one of the cheesiest places in Paris, and understandably so. Its dominant position and artistic heritage is a tourist attraction turned into a trap. It's where the Bohemian crowd used to live and work before rocketing rents forced them to move to the unglamorous Montparnasse.

Notre Dame at sunset takes on a golden hue, which is mesmerising. {P.S. I am running out of superlatives!}

I finally paid a visit of respect to my literature and music idols in the two famous cemeteries of Montparnasse (flat and squared) and Père Lachaise (hilly and curvy) where the likes of Samuel Beckett, Charles Baudelaire, Paul Sartre, Serge Gainsbourg, Man Ray and Jim Morrison rest in (not so much) peace.

Last but not least, don't miss a dinner Chez Janou, a popular bistro with a retro feel and very French menu, architecture and hectic service.

Click on the image to view their fancy website, and make sure you watch the film! Too hilarious!

C'est tout, au Revoire, amis de Carmille!

Amy ~ Emma ~ Eva

GULUDO BEACH LODGE is the eco camp where my husband and I spent an intense but inspirational week. Made of a number of adobe and tented bandas lined up on the beach and overlooking the Indian Ocean, it has been built using local craftsmen and traditional techniques and materials. Everything in Guludo Beach Lodge is ecologically proofed, perfectly blended with the seascape and ethically ran. So, no electricity, but only recycled paper, compost toilet, and locally sourced food, organically prepared. The owners, Amy and Neil, a young couple from the UK, have not only managed to coherently adhere to a responsible tourism, but they actually use tourism to relieve poverty in the full respect and admiration of the country's traditions. It is ths anthropological approach and the authenticity of their intentions that deeply impressed me. As well as employing a staff of 50 Mozambicans, they support the local tradesmen and their produce, and give a big slice of the revenue (namely, close to 10%!) to their foundation NEMA. Nema has been helping 12 communities in Northern Mozambique, approximately 15,000 people, addressing five main areas: health, water, education, enterprise and environment. Some of the achievements so far are:
- Feeding 550 children one nutritious school meal every day
- Providing clean water for over 12,000 people from 29 water points.
- Providing over 4,400 mosquito nets to mothers of young children.
- Currently fund 79 Secondary School Scholars. They are also building a school and a craft shop in Guludo village which I visited during my stay. The craft shop is financed by the personal savings of Emma, the chef. And the school's work is project-managed by Eva, the operational manager of Nema. These three young ladies, three English roses with an admirable inner strength, have become my 2009 inspirations! Before I tell you all about my fantastic experience with Amy, Emma, Eva and the children of Guludo, please watch this informative video which shows the difference Amy & Co. are making to this slice of the world.